Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Bilit Adventure Lodge on Kinabaganan River.

Kinabatangan River.


After a day spent resting back at Sepilok we climbed into a van and headed off to Bilit. This journey was the only sign that there had been some form of uprising in Sabah. At the turn off from the Sandakan – Kota Kinabalu highway we passed through a police checkpoint. There were numerous police, packing some serious automatic rifles.

Evening on the river brings the opportunity for more adventure.

Before we knew it we were turning off the highway and driving down a local road which was unsealed to the village of Bilit. Here we were loaded on to a river boat and took a short boat trip across to the edge of the jungle and Bilit Adventure Lodge. This was not five star accommodation, but it was more than adequate for a jungle adventure. Staying here includes a number of activities that allows tourists to get close to nature.  This is done with the direction of a great group of local guides who really know a lot about the jungle flora and fauna.
White Egret skimming through the air.

Early morning hunting.

Blue Eared King Fisher snapped while sleeping

First up we took an evening cruise along the river and fascinated by the variety of wildlife. There were numerous occasions to photograph birds and monkeys. The highlight sof the evening included the Proboscis monkeys who were settling down for their evening beside the river, numerous pig tailed Macaques and long tailed Macaques who  were out and playing along the edge of the river. We were also interested in the WWF monkey rope bridges that have been placed across the tributaries to give the monkeys a safe way to cross the river so that the crocodiles don’t eat them.
Amazing tiny cricket.

Crocodile ready to slip away into the river.

CHeck out these thorns, long enough to penetrate an elephant's hide.

Jungle cat, very healthy and most contented.

Mr Leech on the prowl, looking to latch on to some unsuspecting carrier.
We returned to the lodge for dinner which was a very nice buffet of local food. All of the meals were provided within the package and provided energy for the activities. After dinner we were able to enjoy a couple of drinks beside the river before we took part in the Night trek through the jungle. This involved hiring Leech socks and gumboots and paying a local guide RM 10.00 for a fascinating hour long walk to spot nearby wildlife. As the jungle comes within metres of the accommodation it is not a long trek. We were amazed by the variety of animals that we saw during the evening. One of our favourites was the Tarsia, a small primate that is very cute. We also caught a glimpse of the Palm civet racing up into the treetops and a Malaysian civet that has a variety of spots. We did meet one or two leeches. Later Ruth was not happy to discover a leech had attached itself under her hair. On our second night I was the only person staying at the lodge who was interested in doing a night walk. This meant I had the local guide to myself, it was great. We spent quite a bit of time with a Tarsia, I was amazed by the way it leapt from tree to tree. We also saw a number of mouse deer that were out and about grazing on the forest floor. These are so tiny and very hard to spot. Their eyes are what give them away.

So many different frogs!

Tarsia hanging on and hoping we would go away.

These are so cute.

Eyes as big as saucers!

These guys are very agile and leap from tree to tree.
Early each morning the lodge offers a cruise on the river. It pays to get up before dawn and make your way to the dining area which is an open platform nestled above the jetty at the edge of the river. It is a great place to enjoy the sunrise with a cup of coffee. The boat left around 6:00 am. During our morning cruises, we were lucky enough to squeeze into the boat both mornings because there were empty spaces. Being up so early is always rewarding in any natural setting because it is the changing of the guard. The animals that have been sleeping are waking beginning to move around in search of food. We managed to be entertained by interesting birds and monkeys. The highlight of the morning cruise for me was meeting up with crocodiles that wee lazing on the river banks.  Their eyes keeping watch on us as they effortlessly slipped into the water. They really do resemble logs once they are in the water. It was a little concerning when they submerged under the water and were no longer visible.
Early morning on the river, the Proboscis Monkeys are waking up.

This is a large male, with an impressive hooter.

Another crocodile, looking ready to attack.

This large male was sleeping in.

Their tails are very thick and very long.

After a hearty breakfast, that was ready on our return to the lodge, we set off on a jungle trek to the Oxbow lakes. This was a leisurely stroll through the jungle following a path that was made by elephants. Of course it goes without saying that there were numerous signs of animals using the same path. The walking was flat and there was plenty to look at. The Oxbow lakes are filled during the rainy season when the river spills over its banks  and into the flood plains.  Once the floods subside these low lying areas are left as lakes. There were numerous birds including the darter, what we would call a shag. In the water there was an abundance of fish. Our guide had brought along bread to feed them.  He broke off the crust and droped some crumbs in to get them interested in eating. Then holding the end of the slice of bread he fed the fish. There was a frenzy of feeding, and the small fish became a solid mass of fish that followed the bread up out of the water. Some bigger fish could be seen lurking just below these little fish. If you are brave enough to put your hand into the water these fish will happily give you a fish spa. They are very effective and even remove the hair from your hand. I was surprised by the strange tickling sensation of these hungry little fellows nibbling away at hairs on the back of my hand.
A nice catfish caught just out from the lodge.

A strong black Nescafe to start the day.

Sunrise, the spectacular display was worth getting up to see.

Another catfish caught by the locals.

Checking the fishing lines.


Our 3 days, 2 nights at Bilit Adventure lodge was everything we expected of our jungle adventure. We seem to have this habit of heading off for our holidays at the end of a busy term, [planning to relax and read a little. In reality we end up being on the go from dawn until dusk because there are so many wonderfully interesting things to see and do. Our entire time in Sabah we found this to be the case. Especially at BAL, of course we wouldn't want it any other way.  We returned to our base at Sepilok Jungle Resort for our final night. We enjoyed the hospitality of the staff and owner John here.  I would have to say that Sabah and in particular, Sandakan should be on the list for anyone who wants to appreciate the way life should be away from the big cities. It is especially exciting to realise that there are many dedicated people working very hard to protect these habitats and save the rare and endangered species that rely on them.  I am in awe of these people and the difference that they make.

The river is a key transport system in this par of Malaysia.

Early morning in Bilit.

The mist continues to rise.

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