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Kinabatangan River. |
After a day spent resting back at Sepilok we climbed into a
van and headed off to Bilit. This journey was the only sign that there had been
some form of uprising in Sabah. At the turn off from the Sandakan – Kota
Kinabalu highway we passed through a police checkpoint. There were numerous
police, packing some serious automatic rifles.
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Evening on the river brings the opportunity for more adventure. |
Before we knew it we were turning off the highway and
driving down a local road which was unsealed to the village of Bilit. Here we
were loaded on to a river boat and took a short boat trip across to the edge of
the jungle and Bilit Adventure Lodge. This was not five star accommodation, but
it was more than adequate for a jungle adventure. Staying here includes a
number of activities that allows tourists to get close to nature. This is done with the direction of a great
group of local guides who really know a lot about the jungle flora and fauna.
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White Egret skimming through the air. |
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Early morning hunting. |
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Blue Eared King Fisher snapped while sleeping |
First up we took an evening cruise along the river and
fascinated by the variety of wildlife. There were numerous occasions to
photograph birds and monkeys. The highlight sof the evening included the
Proboscis monkeys who were settling down for their evening beside the river,
numerous pig tailed Macaques and long tailed Macaques who were out and playing along the edge of the
river. We were also interested in the WWF monkey rope bridges that have been
placed across the tributaries to give the monkeys a safe way to cross the river
so that the crocodiles don’t eat them.
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Amazing tiny cricket. |
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Crocodile ready to slip away into the river. |
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CHeck out these thorns, long enough to penetrate an elephant's hide. |
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Jungle cat, very healthy and most contented. |
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Mr Leech on the prowl, looking to latch on to some unsuspecting carrier. |
We returned to the lodge for dinner which was a very nice
buffet of local food. All of the meals were provided within the package and
provided energy for the activities. After dinner we were able to enjoy a couple
of drinks beside the river before we took part in the Night trek through the
jungle. This involved hiring Leech socks and gumboots and paying a local guide
RM 10.00 for a fascinating hour long walk to spot nearby wildlife. As the
jungle comes within metres of the accommodation it is not a long trek. We were
amazed by the variety of animals that we saw during the evening. One of our
favourites was the Tarsia, a small primate that is very cute. We also caught a
glimpse of the Palm civet racing up into the treetops and a Malaysian civet
that has a variety of spots. We did meet one or two leeches. Later Ruth was not
happy to discover a leech had attached itself under her hair. On our second
night I was the only person staying at the lodge who was interested in doing a
night walk. This meant I had the local guide to myself, it was great. We spent
quite a bit of time with a Tarsia, I was amazed by the way it leapt from tree
to tree. We also saw a number of mouse deer that were out and about grazing on
the forest floor. These are so tiny and very hard to spot. Their eyes are what
give them away.
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So many different frogs! |
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Tarsia hanging on and hoping we would go away. |
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These are so cute. |
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Eyes as big as saucers! |
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These guys are very agile and leap from tree to tree. |
Early each morning the lodge offers a cruise on the river.
It pays to get up before dawn and make your way to the dining area which is an
open platform nestled above the jetty at the edge of the river. It is a great
place to enjoy the sunrise with a cup of coffee. The boat left around 6:00 am.
During our morning cruises, we were lucky enough to squeeze into the boat both
mornings because there were empty spaces. Being up so early is always rewarding
in any natural setting because it is the changing of the guard. The animals
that have been sleeping are waking beginning to move around in search of food.
We managed to be entertained by interesting birds and monkeys. The highlight of
the morning cruise for me was meeting up with crocodiles that wee lazing on the
river banks. Their eyes keeping watch on
us as they effortlessly slipped into the water. They really do resemble logs
once they are in the water. It was a little concerning when they submerged
under the water and were no longer visible.
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Early morning on the river, the Proboscis Monkeys are waking up. |
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This is a large male, with an impressive hooter. |
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Another crocodile, looking ready to attack. |
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This large male was sleeping in. |
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Their tails are very thick and very long. |
After a hearty breakfast, that was ready on our return to
the lodge, we set off on a jungle trek to the Oxbow lakes. This was a leisurely
stroll through the jungle following a path that was made by elephants. Of
course it goes without saying that there were numerous signs of animals using
the same path. The walking was flat and there was plenty to look at. The Oxbow
lakes are filled during the rainy season when the river spills over its banks and into the flood plains. Once the floods subside these low lying areas
are left as lakes. There were numerous birds including the darter, what we
would call a shag. In the water there was an abundance of fish. Our guide had
brought along bread to feed them. He
broke off the crust and droped some crumbs in to get them interested in eating.
Then holding the end of the slice of bread he fed the fish. There was a frenzy
of feeding, and the small fish became a solid mass of fish that followed the
bread up out of the water. Some bigger fish could be seen lurking just below
these little fish. If you are brave enough to put your hand into the water
these fish will happily give you a fish spa. They are very effective and even
remove the hair from your hand. I was surprised by the strange tickling
sensation of these hungry little fellows nibbling away at hairs on the back of
my hand.
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A nice catfish caught just out from the lodge. |
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A strong black Nescafe to start the day. |
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Sunrise, the spectacular display was worth getting up to see. |
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Another catfish caught by the locals. |
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Checking the fishing lines. |
Our 3 days, 2 nights at Bilit Adventure lodge was everything
we expected of our jungle adventure. We seem to have this habit of heading off
for our holidays at the end of a busy term, [planning to relax and read a
little. In reality we end up being on the go from dawn until dusk because there
are so many wonderfully interesting things to see and do. Our entire time in
Sabah we found this to be the case. Especially at BAL, of course we wouldn't want it any other way. We returned to
our base at Sepilok Jungle Resort for our final night. We enjoyed the
hospitality of the staff and owner John here.
I would have to say that Sabah and in particular, Sandakan should be on
the list for anyone who wants to appreciate the way life should be away from
the big cities. It is especially exciting to realise that there are many
dedicated people working very hard to protect these habitats and save the rare and
endangered species that rely on them. I
am in awe of these people and the difference that they make.
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The river is a key transport system in this par of Malaysia. |
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Early morning in Bilit. |
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The mist continues to rise. |
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